A legion of monkeys scramble over a temple compound. A similar legion of tourists scramble over the ruins of a once-grand palace. And a few kilometres out of town, locals flocks to sacred footprint of the Lord Buddha.

This is Lopburi, a town that offers attractions spanning 15 centuries. For western tourists it holds a special interest, for it was here in the 17th century that Siam flirted with European culture and architecture. The courtship abruptly ended nearly as quickly as it started in 1688, with an ensuing period of some 150 years when Siam refused to deal with foreigners. And when it did hesitatingly open its door again, Lopburi again was the venue.

There was civilization here from at least the 6th century AD. The Khmers took control of the town in the 11th century, building many shrines and monuments, the ruins of some still stand. During that time the Thais were migrating from the north, and a fierce battle in the 13th century ended up with the Thais in control of Lopburi.

If Lopburi has a founding father, then it is King Narai of Siam, whose coronation was in 1656. During his reign Lopburi was a bustling city with French, Greek, Italian and Persian monks and ambassadors -- all of which endeavoured to get Siam to join their respective colonies or religious faiths. The Siam Foreign Minister at the time was, in fact , a Greek of dubious reputation. King Narai died in 1688, and partly due to the foreign influence there was a civil uprising and the city was abandoned.

Nowadays the city is divided into two: "old" Lopburi with the ruins, and "new" Lopburi, which has little to offer the tourist except the bus station (and, of course, the AIDS temple). Old Lopburi is small enough to explore on foot, and could even be squeezed into a day outing. There are plenty of inexpensive hotels for the overnight travellers. Lopburi's main attraction is King Narai's Palace, which like Sukhothai has been carefully restored and now stands amid well-trimmed lawns and shady trees. Admission is Bt30. The foreground of the palace has a parklike atmosphere, with ruins and explanations in English. There are the remains of a complex hydraulic system, designed by French and Italian monks which pumped water from the mountain 20 km away. Nearby are the ruins of buildings where French and Persian ambassadors dined, as well as elephants' quarters (elephants were used as a means of transport, labour and in warfare). The palace it self has been renovated and now house what must be one of Thailand's most interesting museums, "The King Narai National Museum." The museum gives the visitor a good impression of ambassadorial pomp and circumstance 400 years ago. Included is a skeleton of a man believed to be 2,500-3,00 years old, found at Bahn Tha Kae, six km north Lopburi. Upstairs, and the museum has agreat collection of bits and pieces from King Mongkut's reign. There is the King's bed, a handless statue of Queen Victorai, a Napoleon statue, a silk shirt from the king and a 19th century London clock. Walking towards the train line along Wichayan Road, on the left is Prang Sam Yod. This is a three-pronged prang made of laterite and sandstone and decorated in stucco. It was probably a Buddhist sanctury in the mid-13th century. Monkeys stroll around and at night it is lit up. From Prang Sam Yod, one can spot a temple in the middle of the roundabout just across the railway line. The Kala Shrine, or Sarn Phra Karn, was built when the Khmers were still in control. It has been renovated and is now a Buddhist temple. The chief attraction here? Hundreds and hundreds of monkeys. They strut around the temple, splash around in large water drums and spend most of the time eating. Be careful of hats, handbags and camera gear, for the monkeys enjoy swooping on anything that looks remotely like food. The monkeys are not the thinnest you'll ever see, thanks to generous tourist and workers who feed them endless supplies of mangos and bananas. Once a year a local businessman hosts a gourmet dinner for them at the temple, laying out food on a table with plates and cutlery!

Lopburi nightlife is like any other country town in Thailand. Eating and drinking seem to be the main entertainment, although there is a large cinema on Ratchadamnoen Road. There is a good market during the day on the corner of Surasongkhram and Ratchadamnoen Roads. At night, head to the roundabout next to the bus station for a very exciting night market!

It's easy to get to Lopburi. The best way is by train, since the bus terminal for the North is currently in the process of moving. From Bangkok, go to the main train station on Rama IV Road called Hualamphong Station. It takes about three hours on the train, and the ride is very scenic. This is the same route that ends in Chiang Mai, so if you're heading North, you could easily break your journey in Lopburi.

Trains leave Hulalamphong Station for Lopburi at the following times Monday to Friday: 4:20 am, 6:40 am, 7:05 am, 8:10 am, 8:30 am, 11:15 am, 1:05 pm, 2:10 pm, 3 pm, 4:10 pm, 5:20 pm, 6:00 pm, 6:10, 8 pm, 9 pm and 10 pm. On Saturday and Sundays, the trains leave at 4:20 am, 4:10 pm and 5:20 pm.

The price of the trip depends on the type of train. The ordinary train fare for a 2nd class tickeet is 28 Baht. The Rapid train costs 104 Baht (2nd class) and 68 Baht (3rd class). The Sprinter costs 264 Baht. The Express train costs 124 Baht.

Once at Lopburi station, you can check into a local hotel like the Asia Lopburi Hotel, which is a 20 Baht samlor ride (rickshaw ride) away. It costs 300-400 Baht a night for this hotel, which overlooks King Narai's palace. However there are many different hotels to choose from.

If you want to go straight to the temple, the best way is to hire a motorcycle taxi or a songthaew (a renovated pickup truck) at the station. It will cost no more than 100 Baht ... be prepared to haggle! The temple is about seven kilometres from the train station. At present the temple welcomes volunteers to help in the hospice for short periods of time. There is accommodation at the temple, though visitors are warned it is very spartan. The gates close at 10 pm, and the no drinking and no smoking rules are strictly enforced. However, volunteers are asked to call ahead of time to the temple's Bangkok office at 749-8766-7 to reserve a room.